Training Week 1!


Beginning of this past climbing season, I signed up for a training program focused on my lock off strength. Having crack climbing as my passion helps my technique but not so much for power, and I needed to train to climb harder grades. Due to this upper body intensive training, my body wasn’t recovering after a week of rest at week 4. I had to stop the program to focus on sending projects this season. A few months later, I was starting to feel the difference. I could make core intensive bouldery moves much easier, small crimps felt bigger, finger tip cracks weren’t as pumpy anymore. Feeling these significant changes, I decided to do another training program during winter to get ready for next season. As my trainer recommended, I took a few weeks off from climbing to recover my body before I start another training program.


My objective for this training program is, again, to build upper body strength. It has been improved with previous program but it still is my weakness. Climbs that I would be working on next season require me to be able to do one arm lock offs, hang on to smaller finger tip cracks and smaller/sloppier crimps, and engage more core muscle for tension moves and overhangs.

Week 1 of training consists of:

  • Training 1: Exercises on rings (x1 day)
  • Training 2: Exercises on finger board (x1 day)
  • Indoor Bouldering (x2 days)
  • Rest days in between (x3 days)

Training 1 and 2 supposed to take about 2 hours. I had to have my weight assisted to do some of the exercises and it still took me 2 hr 10 min to complete Training 1 and 3 hr 20 min for Training 2. Training 2 involves a variety of pull-ups and lock off exercises. I definitely need to work on this before next season starts. (3hr 20 min…Oops!) I will be adjusting exercises according to how my body improves, especially on Training 2. I will be doing this schedule for 3 weeks followed by a week of rest, and then continue training with different exercises.

2 thoughts on “Training Week 1!

  1. Hi Simon, thank you for your comment! Unfortunately I can’t share details on my program for the respect for my personal trainer. This was written specifically for my needs, considering my strength and what I want to achieve as a result. If you have any question about training, please let me know, I can get you in touch with my trainer.


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