Since I sent all my projects last season, I’m starting to make a new projects list. I’ve already had some climbs in mind, Digital Dexterity (5.12c) in Smoke Bluffs was one of them. Pin scarred cracks with a finger pads sloper for crux, feet are in tiny cracks or smearing on crystals. I am really stoked that this climb is one of the fast drying climbs. It was high 0ºC (32ºF), the route was dry and friction was amazing.
I often do top rope solo when I work on a project. I would feel terrible if someone was belaying me in a cold shady crag while I figure out the gear protection and the moves. I like using Ushba like solo device for top rope solo, rope runs very smooth that you don’t feel the weight of a rope at all. It is crucial that the rope isn’t pulling me down when I’m climbing on sloppy finger locks and tiny crystals. Some designs have teeth on them which can damage a rope. I use uAscend from GrandWall Equipment which doesn’t have any teeth. I coil the rope at the end and hang it so uAscend runs smooth without any loop of slack.