Training Week 5: Down and Up within a Week


I was really curious about how I would feel on week 5. This was when I stopped with previous training in the beginning of summer. During climbing season, my focus was to send my projects, not to build a strong body. My body wasn’t recovering much so I chose to stop training. This time, however, I can concentrate on training. After training for 3 weeks, I took a rest week (Week 4) and now I’m back on training week again (Week 5) …continue reading


Top rope soloing on Digital Dexterity 5.12c

Working on Digital Dexterity 5.12c

Since I sent all my projects last season, I’m starting to make a new projects list. I’ve already had some climbs in mind, Digital Dexterity (5.12c) in Smoke Bluffs was one of them. Pin scarred cracks with a finger pads sloper for crux, feet are in tiny cracks or smearing on crystals. I am really stoked that this climb is one of the fast drying climbs. It was high 0ºC (32ºF), the route was dry and friction was amazing.

I often do top rope solo when I work on a project …continue reading

Training Week 1!


Beginning of this past climbing season, I signed up for a training program focused on my lock off strength. Having crack climbing as my passion helps my technique but not so much for power, and I needed to train to climb harder grades. Due to this upper body intensive training, my body wasn’t recovering after a week of rest at week 4. I had to stop the program to focus on sending projects this season. A few months later, I was starting to feel the difference …continue reading

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